Weekend Story: Tryst With My Fisherwomen
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| Grant Road fish market |
As a community essentially from Mumbai for several generations, we give a lot of importance to fish in our food. Our regular haunts to the fish market at Grant Road are looked forward to activities. We are on first name basis with most of the fisherwoman there. They are an extremely friendly lot and are genuinely happy to see us. However before you entertain any other thoughts they call us ‘bhau’or ‘dada’. They perch gracefully on makeshift boxes in the typical Koli squat, right in front of you. Most of them specialize in particular type of fish, some selling big fish like ‘ghol’ (sea gold), or someone selling pomfrets, bangda, surmai or rawas (Indian salmon). Bombil or Bombay Duck, my daughter’s favourite, is seasonal but available on demand. There are some selling small fish like mandeli ,which people take for their cats. So depending on our requirement we go to the particular fisherwoman.
Some have their fixed fisherwoman, a single point of contact so to speak. I had mine, a lady named Yashoda. She and a group of them come to the market from the Versova fishing village. A dusky, pleasant lady with good features, she was always neat and well groomed. She would break into a warm, welcoming smile whenever she saw me. I speak of her in the past tense because a leg ailment prevents her from coming to the market now. Her daughter, Aarti, updates me about her condition. So Yashoda was my first port of call at the market and if nothing is interesting, would wander off to the other fisherwoman. They would welcome me, but somewhat coldly, saying “You are Yashoda’s customer”.
We had developed quite a personal relationship with Yashoda. She had also invited us for her daughter’s wedding, though we did not go. There is a Versova fish festival every year and she calls us. The first time we went, she called us home and we were treated like esteemed guests. Later she took us to the festival and provided us a sumptuous meal, guiding us to her choicest menu.
I should mention about a particular fisherwoman named Chhaya. You could call her the queen of the market. Sitting in the center row, she held a commanding position. Her customers were who’s who of the fish eating people in South Bombay. From well-known doctors, lawyers, businessman, they all went to her. She commanded a price and they were happy to pay. I too on recommendation from a doctor friend went to her once. Her prices were very high and quality was not commensurate with it. Again here was a fisherwoman who very good looking, tall and fair. She was soft spoken and quite dignified in her manner for a fisherwoman. I think this was what attracted those people to her.
Over time, Chhaya lost her eminence, replaced by Shobha, a somewhat watered-down version of her. Shobha is average looking and quite pushy for selling her fish and somehow I am not comfortable with her. She keeps high value fish and also has her set of high profile customers, but quality is slightly suspect. There are others, for example, Anita, again a sweet lady who has a particular sing along tone while speaking in her typical Koli accent, which is fun to hear.
The market was the place on Sunday mornings where you would invariably meet someone. Either they would be relatives, neighbours or friends. Mangesh Dalwi was one of them. Had made some friends there as well, who were common customers of Yashoda. When I came home the first question was, ‘So who did you meet today?’ I enjoyed this question as I would play on it by telling my daughters who were little girls then, ‘You will not believe, who I met today’ and go on to tell them that it was either Hema Malini or some other film personality and how I helped them in selecting the fish and later to thank me how they dropped me home in their Mercedes car. To embellish it further I would say, they took my number by writing on their palm. When asked why they don't call, I had a ready excuse saying the number must have gone off with the fish water. They believed me to a point, but later the moment I said, 'You will not believe...' they knew it was fake. Nevertheless they loved to hear my exploits as a story to the end.
When I was away and coming to the market after a long gap, I would receive a rousing welcome. Some would shout and call me from the other end of the market. Those times, I would end up buying much more than required, just not to disappoint them. But was at the receiving end at home as fish cleaning is a very difficult and time consuming job. Yashoda was the only one I would inform of my absence. But if I missed, she would welcome me with, ‘Arre, kothe hota tu?’ (‘Where were you?). They addressed everyone as ‘tu’, not 'tumhi’ and I think that adds to a very personal touch.
Regular fish buyers would know that these women are the toughest negotiators. They know the pulse of the customers, who are genuine buyers, who are just finding the price. They know what lines to use for each customer. It is a lesson in marketing how they deal with customers and close deals. However I believe I am spared from this as I trust my ally, Yashoda, to give me fish at the right prices. Even then my wife complaints it is still at a high price which raises doubts whether I am too kind and Yashoda is taking advantage. Sometimes she boosts your trust by saying that you don’t take this or that fish from her as it is not fresh. She need not really have said it as with all my experience, I would know if it is not fresh.
I don't know if it was a coincidence that my visits to the fish market dwindled after Yashoda stopped coming. I realized then that she was a huge comfort factor that made the visits happy. Later visits were never the same and today I have almost stopped going as I have found a reliable online supplier who sources directly from Sasoon Dock. My brother does go, his favourite being Shobha. But even he said the markets look deserted now as people have moved online.
My experience with fisherwoman does not end here. There used to be this fisherwoman coming to our opposite building who was a real beauty. Even my wife would say how beautiful she was and this becomes an ultimate compliment, when coming from one woman to another. Unfortunately for some reason she was never called home...what a pity! After several years, maybe two decades or more, I still see her, but she has become almost three times her original size. But even now, looking at her you can tell during her younger days she must have been a stunning beauty.
We know the Koli community are fun loving people and particularly the women are bright and cheerful. One can hardly tell how hard they work for a living. They are up every day at 4:30 am and after collecting the fish the male members of their community have caught, they proceed to their designated markets. It is hectic and strenuous activity until 8:00 am when they come to the market. You can then understand their joy when they see regular, loyal customers like us. Respect and a few kind words to them makes their day.
These women have made a particular place in our lives and we are grateful to them. On Women’s Day, we need to look up to them with regard, respect and gratitude. It is a profession that has come to them and they work hard and do full justice to it, much as any other woman in other professions. On this day we may celebrate the success stories of women in boardrooms and laboratories, but it is time to also acknowledge these fisherwomen, who with their unshakable spirit and cheerful outlook keep our traditions alive and our tables full.
You may also want to read my piece on: Sunday Story: My Post Office Experience
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